The New Island 新島

Niijima Island is one of the Izu Seven Islands off the southern coast of Honshu. My friends and I took my car down to Shimoda on the southern tip of the Izu peninsula then a ferry from Shimoda to Niijima at 9am on Wednesday morning May 2nd for the start of what was to be an epic Golden Week.


Kim, Andy, and Mike at Shimoda Port, Wednesday morning.

The ferry ride was only 4 and a half hours, but the waves soon got to me, and I found myself doubled up over the aft railing after which I felt much better. Long boat rides can be a very calming or upseting experience depending one's disposition. Upon the start of this vacation to Niijima Island I was wound up over months of continuing work, but after 5 days of relaxation on the island, the ferry ride back was comforting, and I slept most of the way.


Shimoda at the bottom of Izu Peninsula


A brief stop at Kouzushima Island.

We arrived in Niijima after 4 1/2 hours on the ferry at 2pm. The weather was cloudy and windy, but we were happy to have arrived. We were greeted by Fashion Model Photographer from Tokyo, Mr. Masa, and his friend Manie on Mama-cheri bikes. I, loving my own bike, had broken it down, tied it together with vinyl string and lugged it onto the ferry, which turns out was what we call in Japan a "daiseikai" (大正解), or "way to go." The rental Mama-cheri bikes, grocery getters, cost 1000yen per day. Masa and Manie took us back to Habushiura Campsite at the other side of the island. We stopped by the one grocery store on the way and stocked up on beer and meat.


Niijima Village. 2000 people and one stoplight strong.

Niijima isn't all that big. One can probably ride around the whole island on bike in several hours, but it is beautiful! I had no idea an area like this was only 8 hours away. The water off the beach was a bright emerald green and turqoise, and we were blessed with sunny weather for the first 3 days there.


"Secret" Beach.


A surfer's paradise.

For such a beautiful paradise and the Golden Week holidays, Niijima was eerily quiet. The campsite, even at its peak, was only half full. But Niijima does appear to be a very popular destination for Japanese and Foreigners alike. The main streets are lined with local Moyai rock art sculptures reminiscent of Easter Island. There is also a public onsen which boasts a view of the western beach, where one may soak for free and watch the sunset. We found ourselves commuting back and forth from the onsen to our campsite on the other side of the beach at least once everyday, only a 15 minute ride. We were astounded at the fact that both the campsite and onsen were free and very well maintained. The locals also reflected the slow island lifestyle and were relaxed and happy. Try finding that in Tokyo!


Moyai rock sculpture.

Habushi Campground was free, spacious, and had nice facilities such as dish washing areas, food preparation, and clean restrooms. The office even let us recharge our keitai's and ipods.


Free campsite at Habushi Beach.

For me, this Golden Week was a needed break from work. I had just finished up a big chunk of work including 6 months of teaching Cross Culture class, the May-June Newsletter, and the new Fujiyoshida City English website. Someone somewhere said that CIRs are jack of all trades. This is true. I do so many different things at my job, and I enjoy it very much, but Japan gets real small real fast. One must travel and get away. The Japanese government recently started giving incentives to companies that encourage their employees to take vacation time...something relatively unhead of. Japanese people don't like to leave work behind for others. So much that they rarely use vacation time. Someone figured out that rested and relaxed workers are actually better for productivity than burnt out ones who work 80 hours per week. Go figure. Domo Arigato Mr. Roboto. The Japanese office worker IS Mr. Roboto, but perhaps that is changing? Nah.


Unwinding on the way to a sunset at the highest point in the island. Can you guess what it is called? That's right! Fujimi Point, 482m high. This name, meaning View of Fuji, is repeated all over Japan. I couldn't see Fuji, but on a clear day, I don't doubt it would be possible.


Few things speak peace as well as the setting sun over the ocean.

Personal time to unwind is required by everyone, but if no one is there when you get back home, life can be quite lonely. I was lucky to have a good group of people to come back to. We ate well. Masa and Emily went to the fish market in the village on Saturday and bought 3000yen of fresh caught squid and made sashimi. Saturday night, out of a stroke of inspiration, I threw a bunch of chocolate into my backpacking pan, assembled dried fruit, and made chocolate fondue. If I am a jack of all trades, then I am a chef as well. The chocolate brought tears from one of the girls camping with us, who was so happy.


Masa prepares fresh squid sashimi that melts in the mouth.


The chocolate fondue experiment was a success! How can one go wrong with chocolate? Props to Kim for keeping me from burning it by suggesting the use of boiling water under the pan.


Jim, Masa, Emilie, Loyik, and Kim.

And on that note, 4 nights and 5 days at Niijima were finished. Though we had one last night to relax and party. Jim brought in the tunes with his guitar, and we rocked out. All in all, I think it was a very restful and rejuvenating trip for everyone there, and we promised to come back. Niijima again this summer? Heck yeah, anytime!


Jim doesnt usually take requests, but his version of "Under the Bridge" will make anyone bust out singing Red Hot Chili Peppers.


After 5 great relaxing days, the waves on the trip back were no problem.


Thanks to everyone for a great Golden Week in Niijima! Shot out to Kim, Mike, Jeannie, Masa, Emilie, Mariko, Hiro, Nate, Masako, Adam, John, Emiko, Rob, Jim, and the people of Niijima Island!